Waterfalls, Overlooks, and Mountain’s Majesty
August 1st, 2009 by Beth Bartholomew
Over the years, I have heard people talk about the beauty of Petit Jean State Park in Arkansas. So when our family decided to vacation closer to home this summer, Petit Jean came to mind. I’d never been a camper, so this would be my maiden voyage. I visited the park’s website (petitjeanstatepark.com) and started making plans.
Just a 3 ½ hour drive from Memphis, Petit Jean is nestled in the Ozark Mountains near Morrilton, west of Conway. It is a special, relaxing place, with enough to keep our two elementary-school aged kids from getting bored. Lush woodlands offer spectacular displays of wildflowers in early summer. Creeks cut their way through the rocky, wooded terrain, creating striking stone formations and pools of cool mountain water perfect for soothing tired feet after hiking. The park features three overlooks, two lakes, dozens of trails, canyons, and waterfalls — including Cedar Falls, which cascades some 90 feet into Cedar Creek Canyon.
Although we choose to camp, you can also stay in the historic Mather Lodge or in one of the park’s cabins. We select the Rent-a-Teepee option because I know the boys will get a kick out of staying in a teepee and, truth be told, my husband and I do as well.
The park has two teepees and two rent-a-camps offering spacious tents that sleep four. The teepees and rent-a-camps are located next to Lake Bailey and are set off the ground on wooden decks. Bathrooms and showers are available in public bathhouses at the park. The $50/night rental fee includes a canoe, life jackets, a two-burner gas camp stove, a fire pit and/or grill, and sleeping pads (for under your sleeping bag). Water and electrical hookup are included and I recommend this; it makes all the difference.
I find it refreshing to wake up each morning, and leisurely drink a cup of hot coffee (yes, we bring our coffeemaker) while gazing out at the lake. We have a great time watching a family of geese nesting on Lake Bailey and take our canoe out several times while there.
As we prepare our first camp supper of hobo packs (meat and veggies cooked in aluminum foil pouches), a park ranger rides up on his bicycle and invites us to a special hike from the Richter Overlook to CCC Overlook to view the sunset. The overlooks offer views of Mt. Nebo and Mt. Magazine. If you go to Petit Jean, be sure to do this. The sunset is spectacular. Guided hikes are not always offered, but the overlook is easily accessible by car from Red Bluff Drive. Yellow, white, and purple wildflowers and rocky cliffs accent the view as the sun sets in brilliant hues of red and gold over the Ozarks.
The next morning, after a breakfast of eggs, bacon, and biscuits cooked in aluminum foil over the fire, we go canoeing and then venture into the park to see Cedar Falls. We drive to the Cedar Falls Overlook, a short trek on an ADA-accessible walkway to the breathtaking falls. Later, we hike on the Cedar Creek Trail, constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the early 1930s. The trail follows a stream and is heavily wooded, creating a cool respite from the sun. The trail is rated “moderate” in difficulty because of rock steps and bluffs that create some difficult places.
After having sandwiches back at the teepee, we head to Rock House Cave, known for cave drawings that are more than 500 years old. The drawings are a little hard to spot so it’s an adventure just looking for them. The Rock House Cave is not actually a cave, but an impressive rock shelter. It is accessible by foot and doesn’t require going underground.
The hike to the Rock House also takes visitors through the Turtle Rocks — round, patterned rock mounds that look much the shell of a turtle. A word of caution, though, as the trail is rated “easy,” which I think is a bit misleading. I consider “easy” a relatively flat trail free of obstructions. But the rock steps and twists and turns, making this a difficult trail for young children and strollers. I wouldn’t take young ones on this trail unless you have a hiking backpack especially made for babies/toddlers. And even with that equipment you should be very careful. I saw one lady trying to negotiate the trail with a baby on her hip.
She soon turned back.
We cool off after a day of hiking with a swim in the park swimming pool, which has a waterslide my children love. We end our evening with a scrumptious supper of pita bread pizzas we make on a grill over the fire pit. Simple and surprisingly tasty.
On Sunday, we feast again on eggs, bacon and biscuits and then pack up our belongings, but not before one last trip in the canoe. We definitely got our money’s worth from the Rent-a-Teepee package.
As we leave the park, we take one more jaunt to the Palisades Overlook, where visitors are treated to a panoramic view of the Arkansas River and surrounding farmlands.
I highly recommend Petit Jean to anyone who enjoys the outdoors and mountain scenery. In fact I’m surprised the park isn’t better known in Memphis. When I tell people where we vacationed, many say: “What? Where is that?” Those who had been to Petit Jean nod their heads with a knowing look. “It’s beautiful countryside up there, isn’t it?”
“Yes,” I reply. “Indeed, it is.”
Lodging at Petit Jean State Park
• Rent-A-Teepee or Rent-A-Camp: $50/per night, includes the use of canoe,
two-burner stove, life jackets, and pads for sleeping bags
• Mather Lodge: $65-$70/per night
• Cabins: $75-$175/per night
• Campsites: $17-$27/per night
For reservations, go online: petitjeanstatepark.com, or call (501) 727-5441.