Meat is a Treat
March 1st, 2009 by Elizabeth Phillips
I grew up eating Sunday dinner at my Gaga’s house. The fragrance of a leg of lamb or roast beef met us as we returned from church, and our meal’s rhythm alternated between happy conversation and contented silences. But lifestyles change, and most of my contemporaries have no idea how to roast a large cut.
Surprisingly, it’s not because we eat less meat.
According to the USDA, we Americans eat more meat now than 50 years ago. In fact, although we cherish the idea that meat should take center stage on our plate, historically meat has been a luxury rather than a birthright. It turns out that our increasing meat consumption has consequences, contributing to the development of health disorders such as heart disease. Also, clearing forestland for pasture and the gas passed by the cows that graze there both contribute to global warming.
Alas, simply turning to conventional chicken or lean pork doesn’t quite do the trick. Factory-farmed chicken and pork create environmental problems, too, and studies have shown that industrially produced meat of all kinds poses more health hazards than meat from grass-fed animals.
So does this mean we all have to turn in our T-bones for tofu? Depends on your point of view. You may not have to go vegetarian, but eating less meat is an option. In a tough economy, defaulting to meat for dinner can get expensive. And eating lots of cheap meat isn’t healthy anyway. By deciding to eat meat less often, you can embrace the idea that good meat is a treat. Our family cooks sustainably raised red meat once a week and cage-free or organic chicken once or twice. The rest of our meals center around fish, eggs, legumes and pasta. No one feels deprived.
Recently, I’ve been channeling my inner grandma and dabbling in roasts. I can’t usually afford the lamb and beef of my youth. However, a whole chicken or pork shoulder costs much less per pound than parts. You can enjoy that Sunday smell, and the leftovers make great sandwiches or fillings for tacos and quesadillas.
Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder
Adapted from Real Food for Healthy Kids
Gus and I love this. It’s also great to take to friends who have a sick family member or a new baby — easy, tasty, and feeds the multitudes. Note that you put the roast in a cold oven.
1. Trim any tough skin from the pork, but not the fat. Place the pork in a roasting pan. Combine salt, oregano, chili powder, and pepper in a small bowl and rub all over the pork. Turn the roast fat side up in the pan and let stand at room temperature for at least an hour.
2. If you have an ovenproof meat thermometer, stick it in the thickest part of the roast. Place the pan in the oven and turn the heat to 325°. Roast 4-4 ½ hours, or until the internal temperature of the meat is 170° on your ovenproof or instant-read thermometer.
3. Transfer the pork to a cutting board (preferably with grooves) and let stand. Pour any pan juices into a fat separator or measuring cup and allow to settle. Spoon off fat if you’re using a cup. Return defatted juices to the roasting pan along with broth, water, and vinegar. Bring to a boil over medium heat, scraping up brown bits with a wooden spoon. Season juices to taste with salt and pepper and reserve.
4. Slice the pork across the grain and serve with juices; or let it cool and cut it off in chunks and mix with juices to serve with barbecue sauce.
Ingredients for a Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder
1 Eight ¼-pound bone-in pork picnic shoulder, preferably locally or sustainably raised
2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt
1 ½ teaspoons dried oregano, crumbled
1 teaspoon Mexican-style chili powder
several grindings fresh black pepper
1 ½ cups chicken broth
½ cup water
3 tablespoons white or cider vinegar
more salt and pepper
Tags: Roast Chicken